Big Sur Saturday

we got up early and drove a couple of hours south to Limekiln State Park – it’s fewer than 60 miles from our house but takes a while to get there because Highway 1 is so curvy – the roads and parks were blessedly empty of people, so we thought maybe tourist season is over and Big Sur is back to quiet mode – ends up, we were just ahead of the crowd – if anything, there were more people crammed into turn-outs than ever on the drive home – gah, why can’t these people go back where they came from and leave Big Sur to us locals? (ahem)
though I collect pictures of the memorial benches we see on our hikes, it’s nice to run across some tree hugger bullshit too
morning woods
when we were here last November, the water was barely a trickle – in the midst of a historic drought, it’s nice to see so much H2O flowing
here's the image that's on my phone
the first time we visited this park, the guy in the ranger booth said to be sure to walk down to the beach to see the old troll – he didn’t provide more information than that, but he didn’t need to as we saw what he was talking about as soon as we got close – the face of the old troll stood out starkly in the rocks on the edge of the ocean
no troll
when we got to the beach today, the troll was gone – it was one of those situations where you think maybe you dreamed the whole thing – thankfully, though there’s no cell service in Big Sur, you can still access your photos and confirm your sanity
so here's a shot of the troll "before" on my screen and the very flat "after" - when we left we asked the ranger when his face fell off - it was February 1, 2014 - bet it made a helluva splash
all that remains are the chin and bottom lip – we asked the ranger when his face fell off – it was February 1, 2014 – bet it made a helluva splash
after Limekiln, we headed another few miles south to Sand Dollar Beach – last time we were there it was cold and rainy – today was beautiful, and the beach was packed – those dark spots on the water are surfers
surfing seems so fun, in theory
a boy and his matching dog
the man in blue fled across the beach and the wordslinger followed
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6 responses to “Big Sur Saturday”

  1. Beautiful shots. Muir was a badass who was hugging trees way before it was cool. The old troll being gone is kind of sad (time marches on and all that bullshit) but also comforting that we are here to bear witness to changes on this beautiful ancient planet that we inhabit for such an incredibly brief time.A blink of an eye.

    That’s enough bullshit sorry sometimes it just comes out… James is rocking that hat I’ve personally been searching for my own hat for years haven’t found it yet but I’ll know it when I see it.
    Keep truckin –

    • I like your take on the troll. We wondered how long he’d been there, laughing at the ocean, and figured it was a damn long time. It’s a rarity to be able to mark change like that in the great wilds of Big Sur (minus the damage caused by fires and rich people with helicopters, which are much easier to note) (we saw a helicopter yesterday, by the way, and assume it was carrying a cargo of dickheads).

      As for the hat, James spotted it at the store a few doors down from the burrito place when we came out here for the first time–Mason’s wedding. Took until we moved out here for him to actually buy it. Good thing the food and the stores don’t really change much over the years either. They are a nice constant in the face of unrelenting waves of visitors, who seem to grow exponentially with every trip we take south.

  2. When I first moved to New Smyrna Beach in 1989 the saloon district was as low key and cool as can be imagined. Funky old mansions turned into drinking establishments, a pirate bar with concrete floors and unbelievably decrepit pool tables; there were dogs sleeping in the road and most of the streets were unpaved.

    Not anymore.

    They Disney-fucked it and I don’t belong there anymore. I moved to the white trash area and it ain’t all that bad. I was in Key West a while back and it got Disneyfied also. I’m sick of Florida but can’t think of anywhere else to go (in this country) and I’m just too shot out to dream of sailboats anymore. Maybe.

    Life does in fact toss out surprises once in awhile and I guess I’m waiting for mine. I quit my job (again) yesterday (hence my dropping by here) and what comes next remains to be seen.

    I was in Cross Creek yesterday and it is pretty nice. Real swamp and empty. I’ll be going back with a canoe on the roof of my pickup.

    Big Sur was always one of my favorite places. But the people do wear thin after awhile. And helicopters? Good lord.

    Peace, sister woman.


    • The good news is, Big Sur is still beautiful and wild and remains too remote for fast food chains or coffee shops to make a go of it. No Disneyfication yet–not enough money in it. I’m looking forward to the gray winter months, which should flush out the day trippers.

  3. The yin and yang of life…..If you choose to live someplace that is nice then it seems part of the price is putting up with the ass-hats that come to visit and generally temporally fuck it up. Living it. This year we have one of the nicest falls that I can remember but to “pay” for that has been the dodging of so many people.
    At a recent party we were at I suggested that maybe as a town we had oversold the Town for the fall weekend festival thing that goes on every weekend……you would of thought I was the loud fart in church.
    Anyway, find a nice spot on the beach and enjoy!!

    • I’d rather be dodging people in Big Sur than sitting in traffic on a freeway in Houston. I’m really being tongue in cheek about all this mess because I’m an interloper myself, no better than any of the other jackwagons taking selfies on the side of the road. Small price to pay to live in this magical place. Still, it’s fun to complain about.

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